Marcel Lapierre was Monsieur Morgon and very much the godfather of Gamay. Marie Lapierre, his wife, makes the wine at Château Cambon. These wines are au naturel; the wild yeasts are practically gnawing at your ankles. Intended to express terroir and possess a cool freshness, equilibrium and fruit; veritably these are vins des soifs.

The Raisins Gaulois is fun incarnate – drinking this wine offers indecent pleasure. You have to like a cheekily-monickered wine with a cartoon label of a geezer swallowing a bunch of grapes (evidently taking his wine in tablet form). Gummy Gamay, do not pass go, do not collect tannin, a redcurrant jam jamboree which just manages to steer clear of sweetness by virtue of a thwack of liquorice on the finish. You’re madder than Mad Jack McMad if you don’t serve this well chilled.

The Beaujolais, from eighty year old vines is wilder; in the murk lurks a jungle of brambly fruit with a whiff of the beast. “La Cuvée du Chat” drinks more like a Morgon. It comes from the granitic soils of a tiny 2.5 hectare parcel bought by Jean-Claude Chanudet and Marie Lapierre from a friend in 2010. The parcel of vines belonged to Jules Chauvet, once upon a wine. Chanudet and Lapierre took over and began the conversion to organic agriculture. The beautiful Gamay grapes from these 80-year-old vines are handpicked in October, after which carbonic maceration with natural yeasts occurs in an enamel tank with some pumping over to stimulate activity. The wine is then moved to foudres to rest on lees before finally being bottled with minimal SO2.