Daterra Portela do Vento 2018 - Daterra Viticultores (Laura Lorenzo) - Ribeira Sacra, Spain 75cl
REGION: RIBEIRA SACRA
BOTTLE SIZE: 75CL
THE WINEMAKER: DATERRA VITICULTORES (LAURA LORENZO)
Laura having once been the winemaker of Dominio do Bibei, left in 2010 and worked as a consultant for a few years whilst building her own collection of tiny vineyards (some no bigger than 10-12 vines) in the Val do Bibei. This mountainous outpost is spotted with extraordinary vineyards, located on precipitous mountainsides, impossible to reach valleys and old terraces. Her knowledge of the terroir here is incomparable, and perhaps more importantly her friendships with the people of the valley even more so. This latter point is important as many elderly growers, feeling there land needs to be handed on to the right person, look to Laura first and foremost as the person to carry on their legacy. She is loved by these people.
So, her vineyards are made up of plots in Soutipedre, Manzaneda, Seone and Lanquillo. Soils range but are mainly granite or schiste with some gneiss and clay infused slate dotted about. To add to this, the vineyards are dotted with Mencia, Godello Palomino, Dona Blanca, even Colgadeira (Furmint), Brancallao, Menancao and of course Mouraton; with no rhyme or reason in some cases. In 2016 she finished the new cellar in an old rundown building in Mazaneda, which is a haven of cool tranquillity, beautifully thought out with large oak and stainless steel for roughly 25,000 bottles maximum. To add to her Sacra wines, she also produces a tiny amount of Valdeorras from Bolo and a new wine from Arribus del Duero, a new venture started with a friend. These are extreme wines from one of Galicia’s absolute stars.
Camino de la Frontera is a blend of Juan García, Tinta Madrid, Rufete, Bobal, Mencía, Bastardo from 100-120 year old vines grown at around 650 metres above sea level on sandy granite soil. The harvest took place in the cooler September weeks and the fruit transported back to Manzeneda. 50% whole bunch, 50% destemmed, cuvaison is 11 days prior to pressing. Elevage is in chestnut foudres and oak 400 litre barrels for 12 months.
Portella del Vento (a delimited Ribera Sacra) is a blend of 70% Mencía with Alicante Bouschet, Merenzao, Mouratón, Gran Negro grown in the Bibei and Amandi zones of the Bibei valley. The fruit is fermented according to site (Amandi tends to be younger vines a little warmer so is destemmed and Bibei with older vines and north-facing aspect is a whole-bunch). Ferments are made in oak and chestnut and aging for 12 months in the same foudre and 400 litre barrel. This is Lauras ‘vin de soif’ although this underplays the elegance and complexity that exists.
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