Pedro M. Leunda and Jon Aseginolaza are two locals to San Sebastian who have been firm friends since childhood. Both are infused with the gastronomic traditions of their home town and although both are biologist, it was only a matter of time that their paths would lead them to the vineyard. Pamplona is now their home town, and through a circuitous route, their first vineyard, Santa Zita, a tiny plot of old vine Garnacha with a tiny little ‘finca’ that lies on the southern edge of San Martin de Unx, came into their hands in 2016. Since then a total of 10 ‘vineyards’ across less than 4 hectares is now under their tenure-ship, with one or two more in their sites.

Their love of wine is infectious. They cite all the great names of the modern Spanish cannon as references and friends, (Laura Lorenzo is a trusted advisor) and the wines they make represent the style of wine they love. What is so striking is that comparisons to Burgundy seem to litter the tasting notes, from the elegance of their ‘pinot-esque’ wines, to the very defined differences in terroir, micro-cuvées (Otsaka is just 375 bottles) and sheer drink-ability.

The vineyards are scattered across the south western area of Navarra, and are tended, pruned, hoed and harvested by hand by Pedro. Jon is winemaker and due to a serendipitous with modernised bodegas in the village, is winemaker. The ferments are part whole-bunch, non-crushed and made in inox tanks (1,000 litres max). After Malo (or not) the wines are finished in old oak selected from the best coopers in France. Ageing is seldom more than 6 months, perhaps 9 for a vintage like 19, but new oak and oxidative wine-making is not the goal here. Currently 5 distinct cuvées of red are ageing, with one new white from La Hoya vineyard, and Cuvée is a blend of Muruzabal and Torraza vineyards. The wines are bottled with low SO2 and no filtration or fining.

Birak is 90% Garnacha 10% Tempranillo. Bright, pure and utterly delisious.

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Birak 2022